Open type bicycle carriage with correct assembly. Correct removal of the bicycle carriage. Assembly and installation of a collapsible type carriage

Perhaps fans of simple periodic bicycle rides are not familiar with this term, but those who often use a bicycle as vehicle and, especially, cycling professionals know what a carriage mechanism is.

Like any mechanism, this part is exposed to external influences over time, wears out or becomes completely unusable, which requires maintenance, complete or partial replacement. In any case, you first need to remove the carriage, determine the suitability of the part, and then decide whether to repair it or replace it with a new one.

Bicycle carriage: what is it and why?

The carriage is a unit located in the middle part of the frame, placed in a special cavity - a glass. Where to look? It's simple: it is hidden where the connecting rods with pedals and stars are located. The main functions of the carriage are to connect to the frame of the bicycle and provide torque when pedaling.

A completely reasonable question may arise: is it absolutely impossible to do without this device? There is no bicycle without a carriage. If you still get one, it means that it is not in use now.

Depending on the bicycle model, the carriages differ in size and maintainability. The most common are 68mm units, but other diameters can also be found. Carriage shaft length range: 110mm, 113mm and 122.5mm.

Types of carriage units:

  • cartridge (disposable);
  • dismountable, which can be repaired.

The first type includes carriages that are installed in a frame and cannot be disassembled. Obviously, the service life of such a mechanism is equal to the time of complete wear of the bearings or axle. Complete sealing of the unit allows it to be used for a long time even in extreme conditions, not to mention measured driving.

Collapsible mechanisms will require periodic inspection and maintenance from the owner. The latter consists of replacing worn bearings and lubricating the entire assembly. We’ll talk about them further: how to remove the carriage, fix the problem and reassemble the unit.


Details of the collapsible carriage

Troubleshooting

The fact that the carriage has become “glitchy” can be found out only when the pedals are rotated. It is difficult to determine visually the problems of the unit, so it is better to prick up your ears and move your attention to the area of ​​​​the lower part of the frame. You shouldn't listen too much, especially if you're driving on a busy road. However, if the condition of the carriage is unimportant, it will “scream” about itself without delay.

A faulty carriage will prevent you from riding your bike quickly. Clogged dirt, worn bearings and lack of lubrication will constantly impede movement. All this is accompanied by an unpleasant creaking and a characteristic knock from below. Also, the unit may begin to play (broken bearings and axle misalignment).

You can finally check whether it is really worth disassembling the carriage using the “standing drive” method. To do this, you need to accelerate a little, stand up from the seat and spin the pedals. When the carriage mechanism jams, the sounds and deterioration in pedal travel will only intensify.


In this position, you need to check the condition of the carriage

Removing the carriage: doing it right!

It is absolutely logical that in order to eliminate the malfunction, you first need to remove the unit from bicycle frame. To be precise, take it out of the glass. The conversation will be about how to do it yourself.

So, before you begin the removal procedure, you will need a set of tools:

  • Connecting rod squeeze.
  • Wrench. If the nut size is unknown, then an adjustable wrench will do.
  • Flathead screwdriver.
  • Small hammer.
  • Carriage remover for removing from the glass.

Before disassembling, you should clean the entire area around the carriage. Use a damp cloth to remove all dirt and dust from the frame, the area of ​​the carriage cup and connecting rods. This will be enough to prevent excess dirt from getting inside during disassembly. But it will be better if you wash the whole bike. Purity - best helper under repair. Proven!

The plugs are removed from the connecting rods. Basically, these are plastic covers that can be easily pryed off with a screwdriver and just as easily inserted back. Next, you need to unscrew the nuts securing the connecting rods to the carriage. A squeeze tool will help in this matter: put it on the nut, then take the key and unscrew it. Depending on the type of thread, the direction of loosening and tightening the nuts may vary. There is an option where on the left side the thread is right-handed (counterclockwise - loosening), and on the right - left-handed (counterclockwise - tightening). There may be only right-hand threads on both sides; it won’t be difficult to figure it out.

Next stage - . The squeeze is inserted at the other end and screwed into the connecting rod. The squeeze bolt is screwed into the connecting rod with force, as a result of which it gradually moves off the axis. It is recommended to start removal from the side where there are no transmission sprockets.


Tool for removing connecting rods from axle

It is held in place using special cups secured with rings. A screwdriver is placed on the ring so that its end points to the left. By lightly tapping the hammer on the screwdriver, the ring smoothly turns to the left and pops off. Similarly, by turning to the left, using the percussive method, the cup is also removed.

So, we finally got to the carriage bearings. These small parts can be removed with the same screwdriver: pry them and they will pop out.


Carriage bearings in cups, retaining ring

And finally, using a removable device, the carriage shaft is pulled out of the glass - a rotating part that plays a major role in the mobility of the bicycle connecting rods.

Troubleshooting: maintenance, cleaning, replacement

We disassembled the carriage, pulled it out of the frame and what do we see? The condition of the carriage cup depends on how much dirt gets into it and how much the bearings are worn. Sometimes bearings simply break into pieces and require complete replacement. This often happens if the carriage assembly has been in use for more than three to five years.

First, all parts must be checked for defects. First of all, this applies to bearings. Then we inspect the carriages, cups with clamps. If any component has visible damage, then you need to replace it with a new one. The remaining parts are cleaned in solvent. The most difficult thing to clean will be the bearings: the dirt is very firmly held between the balls.

The space inside the carriage glass is cleaned with a rag. It is better to spray fine dirt with a lubricating spray (WD-40, for example) and wipe the walls with a soft, dry cloth.

Lubrication and carriage assembly

Using a screwdriver, the walls of the glass are processed. The product should be applied in an even, thin layer. No need to put mountains of lubricant inside. This is of no use. Lubricant is then applied to the bearing, which is inserted from the sprocket side. The flat frame should face outwards. Then you need to lubricate the carriage shaft and insert it so that the long end is on the transmission side. In general, assembling the carriage occurs in the reverse order.

The bearing on the other side is inserted in reverse, with the frame into the glass. The cups are lubricated from the inside and then put on. It is necessary to tighten until the axial play is completely eliminated. In this case, the rotation of the shaft should be slightly constrained. Once the fastening rings are installed, the cup will move slightly and the axle will rotate freely.

All that remains is to assemble the connecting rods. The most important thing here is to put them on so that, God forbid, they don’t fall off when pedaling. Procedure for effectively assembling connecting rods:

  1. The square is lubricated with a small amount of grease, this will help to fit it deeper onto the axle.
  2. Processing the screw with a thread locker.
  3. Tighten the connecting rod nut with maximum force until it stops. You can even lengthen the key - the thread will not break.
  4. Inserting plugs.

A bicycle is an extremely unstable unit, so when carrying out any repair work it must be carefully secured. The frame will not swing back and forth, which will eliminate the risk of the bike falling on your feet or hands.

The carriage is assembled and ready for use. In general, the procedure is simple even for the first time, and in the future, disassembling and installing the mechanism will not be difficult at all.

The rear wheel carriage is a different unit with a different purpose, which is sometimes also called a carriage, which is not entirely accurate. It is removed from the bicycle along with the entire wheel as its integral part. The rear carriage of the bicycle has a different design: it consists of a bearing block and a package of gear wheels chain transmission and serves as the hub of the rear wheel.

The carriage cups have a number of standard sizes. The most common cups are 68 mm long, BSA type for mountain bikes - 73 mm, for particularly loaded carriages - 83 mm, Italian type - 70 mm, used on Soviet road bikes, 100 mm - for fat bikes. The carriage shaft length has the following most common dimensions (mm): 110,113,118.5, 122.5 and 127.5.

Types of carriages

Structurally, carriages are divided into open and closed (cartridge).

The closed-type carriage is a dust- and moisture-proof bearing block - a cartridge mounted in its own housing. The main advantage is that the faulty carriage is simply replaced with a new one. Such carriages cannot be repaired. They are unpretentious in operation, do not require adjustment, bearing misalignment is excluded, and are reliably protected from dirt.

The open-type carriage is assembled directly into the bicycle frame. Almost any old bike has a carriage of this type. To ensure normal operation of the carriage and protection from dirt, proper assembly and adjustment is required. Maintenance of an open-type bicycle carriage consists of periodically washing it and changing the bearing grease. The bearings themselves are of two types: caged or closed. Cage bearings are the most vulnerable in operation; for them, the inner ring is the carriage shaft, and the outer ring is the carriage shell. If a crunching sound and increased resistance appear during operation, it means it’s time to change the bearings; For a cage bearing, this may also mean changing the shaft or carriage housing. Sealed bearings are fairly easy to replace with new ones.

Based on the level of versatility and interchangeability, carriages are conventionally divided into integrated and non-integrated.

Types of connection of carriages and connecting rods

There are several generally accepted types or standards of connections between carriages and cranks:

  • 1 SQR - square;
  • 2 Truvativ Howitzer;
  • 3 Truvativ Powerspline;
  • 4 Truvativ HammerSchmidt;
  • 5 Shimano Octalink v.1;
  • 6 Shimano Octalink v.2;
  • 7 GXP;
  • 8 ISIS Drive;
  • 9 HOLLOWTECH II.

Features of carriage repair

Carriage repair mountain bike differs from road carriage repair only in nuances. Mountain bikes are designed to withstand relatively high dynamic loads.

Repairing a bicycle carriage in general is not a technically difficult task, since no special high-precision measuring equipment and machines are required. It is important to correctly determine the parameters of the carriage and purchase the appropriate spare parts or components. In particular, to replace an integrated carriage, as a rule, you only need to know its manufacturer (standard) and the length of the carriage shell, and the same carriage is used for the 73 and 68 mm (English thread) models.

When repairing a non-integrated carriage, the procedure is as follows:

  • 1 determine the required carriage standard (square or splined);
  • 1 determine the parameters of the carriage shell (length, type of thread);
  • 1 from the instruction manual for the front derailleur, find out the permissible chainline;
  • 1 the front carriage of the bicycle must have a certain shaft length - take it from the instruction manual;
  • 1 purchase a carriage of the required standard, with the required shaft length and the required length of the glass;

If the front derailleur is E-Type, then you need to look for a corresponding non-integrated bottom bracket, while integrated bottom brackets are compatible by definition.


Cycling is becoming increasingly popular; it is a universal mode of transport both for moving around the city and just for active rest. During the operation of a bicycle, it becomes necessary to disassemble and subsequently reassemble the bicycle or its components.

A road bike that uses one gear most often - the most popular look bike for the city, it is easy to maintain. The article discusses how to disassemble a bicycle exactly this type.

It is better to carry out work on disassembling a bicycle on a clean floor so that dirt and debris do not stick to the lubricated components of the bicycle. If you have the necessary tools, any physically healthy person can disassemble a bicycle in a few hours maximum.

Here are the basic steps to disassemble a bike:

The steps do not have to be completed in order, but if you disassemble the bike in the order specified in the article, it will take less time and the job will be easier to complete. You can use a repair stand to disassemble the bike, but this is not necessary.

Step 1: Remove the pedals

When removing the pedals, you need to pay attention to the following: the right pedal from the chain side is unscrewed as usual counterclockwise, the left pedal is unscrewed in the opposite direction - clockwise.

1. Take a wrench of a suitable size and unscrew the pedals, hooking the wrench onto the pedal at the very edge of the connecting rod.

2. The pedal must be held with your free hand so that it does not fall to the floor.

Step 2: Remove the left connecting rod

Let's start removing the left connecting rod first, it is easier to remove since the right connecting rod is connected to the sprocket. Both connecting rods have standard threads.

1. First you need to remove the dust cap. Then unscrew the connecting rod bolt at the place where the connecting rod connects to the carriage. Most often, a hex wrench is needed, but there may be options - it all depends on the brand of connecting rod.

  • You should be able to see the threads inside the crank and the bottom bracket shaft.

2. Slightly unscrew the connecting rod puller handle as shown in the figure; the puller pusher should be hidden in its threaded part.

3. Carefully screw the puller into the connecting rod. The puller must enter to its full depth, since when removing the connecting rods, a lot of force will be applied to the threads.

4. Turn the puller handle clockwise, so the pusher will be screwed into place of the bolt that secured the connecting rod. The connecting rod should be removed from the carriage with some effort.

Step 3: Remove the wheels

1. Loosen the nuts on the dropouts and remove the wheels.

  • The nuts should be loosened to the point that the wheels can be easily removed.

Step 4: Remove the chain

Once we've removed the rear wheel, the chain will hang on the frame and rear sprocket.

1. Take a chain squeezer. Place the chain link between the squeeze pushers so that it fits tightly there.

2. You need to work with the squeezer in the same way as with a vice; direct the pusher of the squeezer towards the piece of metal that connects the links (see picture below).

3. Twist the squeeze until the chain connector almost comes out on the other side. The metal bracket that connects the links of the chain should remain in one half of the link, while the other half should become free and the chain will fall apart.

  • Alternate twisting the squeezer into the chain and removing it from the chain, checking each time whether the chain has come loose (while the chain is in the puller, you will not be able to see this). Do everything carefully, don't rush.

4. Once the chain is disconnected, it can be completely removed from the bike. Place it on a clean sheet of paper so it doesn't get smeared.

Step 5: Remove the brakes

1. Unscrew the screws securing the brake handles at the bottom of the steering wheel.

2. Remove the brake handles from the steering wheel, being careful not to drop anything.

3. Unscrew the bolt on the fork that holds the brake.

4. Now is the time to change your brake pads if necessary and clean your brakes.

  • If the brakes are V-brake (as in the picture), then you need to unscrew the small screw on each side that holds the brake pad.

  • After removal, unscrew another small screw as in the picture, it holds the block itself, remove it from the metal backing.

  • Replace the pad with a new one. Brake pads are not expensive, but they significantly increase road safety due to reliable braking.

Step 6: Remove the steering wheel

1. Unscrew the bolts located on the steering column stem; they secure the steering wheel tightly in one position.

2. Do not lose the locking plate after removing the last bolt.

Step 7: Remove the steering column

Hold the fork while performing this step; after removing the bolts that hold the column in the head tube, the fork may fall out. As a result, the bearings may be damaged. You may not have to deal with this, if your bike has a non-separable type of steering column, then this will not happen.

1. Unscrew the bolt from the top of the column cover.

2. Unscrew the ring nuts on the column shaft (it is at this time that the fork may fall out).

3. Pull steering column from a fork.

4. If there are race rings, remove them from the fork.

5. Remove the bearings from the cups on the frame. Place them on a clean sheet of paper; you can lubricate them with special bearing grease.

  • First, clean the bearing of old grease, such as solvent.
  • Lubricate the bearing balls with a suitable lubricant.

6. Note, photograph or write down the location of the bearing rings and cups and the disassembly sequence. You will need to assemble it exactly in reverse order.

Step 8: Remove the plug

1. Pull the fork out of the frame without losing the bearing race from the bottom cup.

2. Pull upward to remove the bearing ring and cup from the frame.

Step 9: Remove the right connecting rod

Remove the right connecting rod in exactly the same way as you removed the left one. There is a sprocket on the right connecting rod. If there is a need to replace it, then use a hex key to unscrew the bolts that hold the sprocket to the connecting rod.

Step 10: Removing the Carriage

Removing the carriage is the most time-consuming part of the job. You may not be able to do it yourself and will have to contact a bike mechanic. Please note that there are a large number of carriage models and they have their own specific keys. The article discusses the dismantling of the ISIS carriage. The carriage cups have a standard thread, while the carriage has a reverse thread.

1. Place the carriage wrench on the carriage spindle, which itself is not deep. The key is easy to put on. Work carefully, do not strip the threads and splines on the carriage.

2. The ISIS carriage has 2 parts - the body and the stop cup. The threads on them are applied differently, check which side the retaining ring is put on. In most cases, the retaining ring has a normal thread and should come out fairly easily (compared to the other side).

3. Select the other side, turn the key counterclockwise until the cup comes off.

4. Once you remove the cup from the spindle, turn the frame over and pull out the carriage, first rotating it clockwise.

Step 11: Removing the Saddle

1. Remove the bolt at the top of the seat tube - where the saddle post inserts into the frame.

2. Using movements left and right, pull the saddle with the pin out of the frame.

Step 12: Remove the retaining ring

The circlips on single gear bikes are located on the outer threads of the rear wheel hub. These rings are designed to secure the rear sprocket and prevent it from coming loose when the pedals are rotated backwards. Therefore, the retaining ring is screwed onto the bushing in the opposite direction, which helps to press the sprocket tightly. The thread on the retaining ring is directed towards reverse side, this prevents the sprocket from unscrewing while the bike is moving forward.

1. You need to take a puller for the locking rings and position it with the side with one notch.

2. Turn the puller clockwise to remove the retaining ring.

Step 13: Removing the Rear Sprocket

On the rear sprocket the thread direction is normal.

1. Place the key-whip on the sprocket as shown in the figure with the part of the chain that does not hang down.

2. Wrap the key chain around the rear sprocket, pulling the chain in the opposite direction to the direction of the wrapped chain.

3. Turn the key counterclockwise firmly to remove the sprocket. If it is difficult to do it yourself, then ask someone to help you. It is necessary to ensure that the chain remains on the sprocket.

Step 14: Remove the Tires

1. Deflate your tires.

2. Place a plastic bead under the rim.

3. Using pressure, lift the edge of the tire over the rim along its entire length.

4. Once part of the tire is pulled out from the rim, the remaining part will pull out easily.

5. Pull the bead over the wheel and pull out the edge of the tire.

6. Pull the nipple out of the hole in the rim and remove the tube from the tire.

7. Repeat the same steps to release the second edge.

8. If the camera has been punctured, seal the hole or replace the camera itself. You can also install a special puncture-proof tape (slipper) on the rim.

Adviсe

  • A normal or common thread is a thread that twists clockwise, a reverse thread is a thread that twists counterclockwise. Follow the thread type instructions carefully.
  • Regular lubrication of threaded connections extends their service life.
  • When removing parts, it is advisable to clean and lubricate them before installing them back on the bike, which will significantly extend the life of the bike.
  • Pay close attention to the directions of the threaded connections of the bicycle's screw-on components. Check the direction of the thread if the part is stuck and does not want to turn. Perhaps you are turning in the wrong direction.
  • After removing the part from the bicycle, study it carefully and remember how and where it was placed on the bicycle. You can also take photographs of the stages of disassembling the bike.

Warnings

  • When turning pedals or wheels on a bicycle, be careful not to place your fingers near the chain or sprockets. You can injure your finger if it gets caught between the chain and sprocket.

Bicycle disassembly tools

  • Rags, paper towels, bicycle cleaning fluid
  • Multi-purpose lubricant
  • Hex keys (set)
  • Whip Key
  • Connecting Rod Puller
  • Carriage puller
  • Carriage key
  • Plastic tire beads
  • Pump
  • Retaining ring key
  • Pedal removal key
  • Chain squeezing

Visual video on how to disassemble a bicycle:

July 24th, 2015

The homemade carriage on the bicycle I assembled consisted of an axle and two 203x bearings driven tightly into the frame. Those were the days :) Now the carriage has become much more complicated. Let's try to figure out this tricky thing.



The bottom bracket is a bicycle assembly that ensures the system is connected to the frame and rotates freely using bearings (usually cartridge bearings). The carriage is screwed or pressed into the carriage shell of the frame.

Separately, eccentric carriages can be distinguished - they can move in the carriage shell of the frame in order to tension the chain on a singlespeed or on a bicycle with a planetary hub. Requires a special frame.

Integrated carriages



They are part of an integrated system. They consist of two cups with bearings pressed into them, screwed into the carriage shell of the frame. In this case, the bearings, as a rule, are located outside the carriage shell, and the axle is pressed into one of the connecting rods and has a greater thickness, which ensures high rigidity of the unit. The cups are connected to each other by a plastic or aluminum spacer, which provides bearing preload and protection from dirt.


Road and mountain carriages, as a rule, are incompatible with each other, even from the same manufacturer.


Integrated carriage standards:


  • Shimano Compatible:

    • Shimano Hollowtech II


    • RaceFace X-Type

    • Token

    • Chris King

    • FSA Mega Exo


  • Compatible with SRAM, Truvativ, Bontrager:

    • GXP (GigaX Pipe)

    • Hope (via proprietary adapter)

    • Chris King (via proprietary adapter)


  • Campagnolo Ultra-Torque.

Non-integrated carriages

They include an axle onto which the connecting rods are pressed, and a set of bearings located inside the frame bracket. Divided into two categories:


  • Cartridge - the axle and bearings are a single, non-separable unit.

  • Dismountable - can be disassembled for cleaning, lubrication and replacement of worn parts (used in old bicycles).

Non-integrated carriage standards:


  • With a wedge landing of connecting rods (for Soviet bicycles).

  • Square taper - the standard varies somewhat among different manufacturers.


  • With splined connecting rods:

    • Shimano Octalink v.1

    • Shimano Octalink v.2


    • Truvativ Powerspline

    • Truvativ Howitzer

    • Truvativ HammerSchmidt


Octalink - Shimano standard


All these standards are generally incompatible with each other.

Types of carriages according to the carriage shell used

With threaded fit

Depending on the carriage glass of the frame, carriages are divided into the following types (the most common):


  • English thread (BSA, 1.37 in x 24 TPI) is the most common standard. Options depending on the length of the glass:

  • 68 mm - the most common,

  • 73 mm - used in a number of mountain bike models,

  • 83 mm - for extreme disciplines,

  • 100 mm - fat bikes.

  • With Italian thread (BSC, 36 mm x 24 TPI), cup length 70 mm - used in old road bikes. Until now (2013) Campagnolo is used.

  • With French/Swiss thread M35×1 - used in Soviet bicycles.

Press-fit

Recently, integrated systems such as BB30/Press-fit have become widespread. The design feature is that the bearings are pressed directly into the frame (plastic cups can be used), and an aluminum axle with a diameter of 30 mm is threaded through them (instead of a steel one with a diameter of 24 mm). This promises a further increase in the rigidity of the unit with some reduction in weight. On the other hand, bearing replacement tools are noticeably more expensive than conventional carriage pullers.



Classic Press fit for BB30 standard systems with 30 mm axle:


  • BB30: 42mm cup inner diameter, 68mm road or 73mm MTB cup width, cupless bearings.

  • Press fit 30 (PF30): inner diameter of the cup 46 mm, cup width 68 mm for road or 73 mm for MTB, bearings with cups.

  • Press-fit bottom brackets for standard systems with 24mm steel axle:

  • BB90/95: cup inner diameter 37 mm, cup width 90.5 or 95.5 mm, bearings without cups.

  • BB86/92: cup inner diameter 41 mm, cup width 86.5 or 91.5 mm, cup bearings.

  • Unique standards that require their own system with a 30 mm axis:

  • BBright Direct Fit: Cup ID 42mm, Cup Width 79mm, Bearings Without Cups.

  • BBright Press Fit: Cup ID 46mm, Cup Width 79mm, Cup Bearings.

  • 386 EVO: cup inner diameter 46 mm, cup width 86.5 mm, cup bearings.

Features of choosing a carriage


  • When purchasing an integrated carriage, you usually only need to know its standard (that is, the system manufacturer) and the length of the carriage shell, and the same carriage is used for the most common varieties, 68 and 73 mm with English thread.

  • In the case of a non-integrated carriage, everything is much more complicated. The procedure is as follows:

  • First you need to find out the required carriage standard (square or one of the splined ones).

  • Find out the type of carriage cup (length, type of thread), and depending on the length of the cup (usually 68 or 73 mm) different carriages are required!

  • Refer to the front derailleur manual for the correct chainline.

  • Refer to the system manual to find out the required length of the carriage shaft.

  • Find on sale a carriage of the required standard, for the required cup length and with the required shaft length.

  • If you use an E-Type front derailleur, then you need to look for a non-integrated bottom bracket of the appropriate variety, while all integrated ones are compatible with such derailleurs out of the box.

Eccentric carriage

Allows the use of a drive without external gear shifting (singlespeed, planetary hub) in combination with conventional vertical frame dropouts. Such dropouts provide faster and more convenient wheel installation compared to horizontal ones. The eccentric carriage rotates in its seat, allowing the chain to be tensioned, then is fixed with bolts and/or a union nut. Such carriages are rarely found on production bicycles; one of the most common examples is Strida. It is also usually installed on tandems as a front carriage, which makes it possible to tension the synchronization chain.


Varieties:


  • Standard 54 mm - for example, Bushnell Eccentric Bottom Bracket. Has a BSA thread for a standard carriage, requires a special frame with a seat with a diameter of 54 mm.

  • Standard 46mm - Installs in a standard Press Fit 30 frame. Integrated system (with 24mm axle) mounts directly into the carriage.

  • BSA Standard - Installs in a standard frame with BSA threads. The integrated system (with 24 mm axis) is installed directly into the carriage. Provides chain length adjustment only within 1/2 link, requires use in conjunction with a half-link chain.

http://www.bike-repair.ru tells in great detail about repairing carriages and how to remove them and with what. Let's look at this issue too.

Tools for working with the carriage

To work with the cartridge carriage, you only need a slotted key. It is also useful for many collapsible carriages.



But on some collapsible carriages, instead of a slotted one, you will need another key -



And you may need one like this. You can get by with a regular 36-size open-end wrench, or, as a last resort, use an adjustable/gas wrench. The gas wrench must be used carefully - it can easily damage the frame.



On collapsible carriages you will also need this special key



Despite such a variety of tools required, the process of disassembling, installing and adjusting carriages of different types is not very diverse. You just need different tools to perform the same operations on different carriages. The main difficulty when disassembling the carriage is not to forget that left-hand threads are used on the right side. The second difficulty - this especially applies to aluminum frames- unscrewing the cups may require very, very great effort. In this case, you must not allow the key to fall off - you can damage bicycle parts or injure your hands. Therefore, it is better to stock up on keys with fairly long handles.

Removing the carriage of cartridge and collapsible types

Before removing the carriage from the frame, it is necessary to remove both connecting rods from the carriage axle.

After this, you should clean the bottom bracket of dirt, since the bottom bracket of the frame is one of the dirtiest places on a bicycle and is usually difficult to clean until the cranks are removed. You need to be especially careful to scrape out dirt from the cup slots - if there is a lot of dirt, then it is impossible to insert a puller into the cup.



0. Removing the carriage may require considerable force. Therefore, the bike must be placed securely. If it is more convenient for you, you can turn it upside down.



We begin to remove the carriage from the left side, that is, where there are no sprockets.


1. Some carriages have a lock nut on the left side. It must be unscrewed specially. with a key (if you don’t have one, then you can use an ordinary family key). This nut has a right-hand thread. When unscrewing, you may have to apply considerable force. You must unscrew it carefully, avoiding the key falling off - you can damage the nut.



If your carriage does not have such a nut, then proceed to step 2.



2. Now we take a wrench for the carriage (slotted or special, depending on the design of your carriage. The photographs show a splined one.), insert it into the grooves, and turn the left adapter cup out of the frame using an adjustable wrench with a longer handle. It has a right-hand thread. When unscrewing, you may have to apply considerable force.



We take out the left cup (along with the bearing, if the carriage is collapsible)



3. Move to the right side of the bike (where the sprockets are). Again, take the carriage puller and a long-handled wrench, insert it into the grooves, and turn the right cup out of the frame. She has left carving When unscrewing, you may have to apply considerable force.



4. We take out the cartridge or the right cup with the axis.



The carriage has been removed. Now you need to remove the bearings from the collapsible carriage (if they are not pressed into the cup), remove the old grease with a cloth, and wash all the parts in some solvent (usually kerosene).



Installation of a cartridge-type carriage is carried out in the reverse order of removal.


We start by applying a little lubricant to the threads of the carriage and adapter cup, so that later it will be easier to turn it out.


1. We start from the right side. Using a carriage wrench and an adjustable wrench, screw the carriage into the frame until it stops. The torque should be 50-70 Nm.


The carriage on the right side has a left-hand thread.


2. Move to the left side. Using the same key, screw in the left adapter cup. The cup on the left side has a right-hand thread. The torque should be the same - 50-70 Nm.


Now we need to install the connecting rods and the system.

Assembly and installation of a collapsible carriage

The collapsible carriage is very similar to the one used on Soviet bicycles, so the assembly and adjustment process is not difficult.


Before assembly, you need to wash all the parts in some solvent (kerosene), wipe with a cloth, and dry. I do not recommend using gasoline - it can damage the plastic seals in the cups. The new carriage should also be washed - the lubricant on it is most likely preservative.

It's also a good idea to check the frame's bottom bracket assembly for damage and any debris. Several times I found shavings and sawdust there that fell into the bottom bracket assembly from the seat tube of the frame. Once in the bearings, sawdust will not allow the bike to move smoothly.


The carriage is installed in the reverse order of removal.

0. When assembling the carriage, the most difficult thing is not to confuse the ends of the carriage axis - its right and left side are different. Typically, letters corresponding to the sides of the axle are marked on the axle or on a plastic casing (some carriages do not have this casing).


The cups cannot be mixed up - they have different threads (the left cup has the right one and vice versa)


1. Place the plastic casing on the axle. We put the bearings in the cups. If the bearings have cages, then we place them with the cage outward (with the balls inside the cups). Lubricate the bearings with thick grease. Use the same grease to lubricate the threads of both cups.


2. We start assembly from the right side. We insert the axle into the right cup, and screw this cup into the frame until it stops. To do this, you need a slotted wrench for the carriage. The right cup has a left-hand thread.


3. Now we screw in the left cup on the other side in the same way. It has a right-hand thread. Let's move on to adjusting the carriage. (you can go straight to step 1)

Adjusting the bearings of the collapsible carriage

After assembly, the carriage must be adjusted, but often you have to make adjustments without disassembling. For example, sometimes after a long drive on uneven roads, play appears in the carriage, which should be eliminated by adjustment. Play in the carriage, at best, can lead to disruption of gear shifting accuracy, and at worst, to damage to the bearings and cups. On a long trip, you can try to adjust the carriage without disassembling it.


0. Before starting the adjustment, you need to remove only one left connecting rod, remove the lock nut (with a special wrench) and slightly loosen the left cup (with a spline wrench). The nut and left cup have right-hand threads.

1. We wrap the left cup almost all the way so that the carriage axis rotates easily, without jamming, and at the same time has no play. Then we loosen it with a slotted wrench about a quarter of a turn.

Screw on the lock nut, holding the cup with a slotted wrench. We tighten the nut specially. key all the way.


Now you need to twist the carriage axis by hand and rock it from side to side. If everything is done correctly, the carriage should rotate freely, without jamming, and have no noticeable play. If it sticks or there is play, then unscrew the lock nut and repeat step 1, loosening or tightening the cup with a slotted wrench.


When the carriage rotates without jamming or play, you can install the connecting rods.


Sometimes the carriage cannot be adjusted. That is, when you try to ensure that it rotates freely, backlash appears. And vice versa, if you eliminate the play, the axle rotates tightly, with jamming. This indicates that it is time to change either the bearings or the carriage itself.

Despite the fact that a bicycle is a simple structure in terms of technology, it still needs to be checked and implemented technical equipment and all kinds of maintenance. By implementing these procedures, you can greatly extend the life of your device. In addition, if you follow all the rules and often take a closer look at the condition of the bicycle, you can prevent it from undergoing significant types of repairs, which are also quite expensive.

It is worth noting the fact that there is absolutely no need to contact service centers for minor repairs or inspection of the bicycle. In this article we will talk about how to remove the carriage from a bicycle, due to which you can save on service centers. Let's consider all the immediate nuances of this process and other things that you will definitely need.

The process of removing the carriage for a beginner

Undoubtedly, it is always difficult for a beginner in this or that business. But if there is a certain desire to do something with my own hands, then you need to learn and do. We present to you a description of how to remove the carriage from a bicycle with your own hands.

It is better to do so-called maintenance of your own vehicle than to trust it to a stranger. After all, you will clearly know what works great in your device and what needs to be fixed. If you have the necessary tools for various works on the bicycle, then you can carry out a number of actions yourself.

In order to remove the carriage from the bicycle, as well as remove the pedals from the bicycle carriage, you need to prepare in advance a number of tools that you will have at hand. Such tools include:

  • wrench for nuts or adjustable type;
  • connecting rods will require a special squeeze;
  • flat-type screwdriver;
  • a hammer, but a small one;
  • a tool that will allow you to remove the carriage itself.

On a device such as a bicycle, the bottom bracket is a bearing assembly. The main point This mechanism consists of connecting the connecting rod to the frame. In addition, a product such as a carriage provides the so-called torque on the connecting rods. Based on this, you can understand that such a part is very important on a bicycle; its condition affects a lot.

The design of modern bicycles requires a special glass for material such as the carriage. This glass can be found in a certain area of ​​the rear pipe. As a rule, manufacturers install the carriage shell in the area of ​​the rear stays. Due to the fact that the device is installed in such a vulnerable area of ​​the bicycle, its durability is poor. From this it turns out that there is a need to check the device and repair it from time to time.

It is negatively affected by dirt, dust and rain. For this reason, backlash is formed. If you do not clean it in time and do not prevent breakdowns of this product, then this can lead to a lot of negative nuances. While moving, you may encounter a decrease in potential speed or jamming of the device.

Therefore, advice on how to remove the carriage from a bicycle is quite relevant.

Characteristic qualities of this type of repair

Every bicycle owner should know how to remove the carriage from a bicycle. It is worth noting that if the manufacturers of your bicycle installed such a closed mechanism in it, then there is no point in carrying out repairs. Such devices, as a rule, are disposable and the best way out of this situation is to replace the old unit with a new one.

In the same case, if your mechanism is of an open type, then everything is somewhat different. It can be easily removed, repaired and installed in its place. Experts in the field of bicycle repair say that the carriage is a fairly simple mechanism that can be easily repaired.

When carrying out repairs, a number of actions must be taken:

  • It is necessary to lubricate all parts that are present in the mechanism.
  • The backlash must be eliminated.
  • If there are any sounds when driving, then they should be eliminated.

Convenient instructions for removing this carriage

Many people wonder how to remove the carriage from a bicycle without a puller. The question is quite interesting, but first let’s look at the instructions for the standard process. It is important to remember that the design of this product contains small bearings, which often fall apart. Therefore, you need to understand that removal and repair must be carried out with care and attention.

Puller Features

Before you learn how to remove a bottom bracket from a mountain bike, you need to learn the features of the remover tool. It must be selected taking into account appearance and the structure of the carriage itself. Often the carriage manufacturer must match the puller manufacturer. Today, there are universal types of pullers in the world, but, unfortunately, they may not be suitable for a particular mechanism. This mechanism is excellent for removing the so-called carriage cups. This is exactly what it is main feature mechanism. Therefore, when using such a device you should be extremely careful and attentive.

Carriage difference

How to remove the carriage speed bike- this is a separate topic. This is justified by the fact that on such a vehicle this device has a slightly different appearance.

On other bicycles, where the carriage is of a standard type, it is necessary to check it externally. If it gets disassembled, that's good. But before starting this procedure, you should pay attention to the condition of its bearings. In order to clean the carriage itself and especially its threads, it is necessary to use gasoline. It is important to remember that such devices require regular cleaning; this is necessary for your safe driving.

Installing the material in its place

Once the material has been cleaned, the work does not end. The carriage must be attached and installed in its place. This process also entails a number of complications, which include installing the cups in their place. After installation, the device must be treated with lubricant. That's all, now you know how to remove the carriage from the bicycle.